Reflections on Japan

As I was flying in to Japan from high above the ground I saw lots of long white things clustered together in rows. I couldn't tell what they were, but as we descended I realized that they were greenhouses, Quonset hut shaped, draped with plastic sheeting. This is their secret for having fresh vegetables and fruits year round. The Japanese are careful stewards of their land and every available inch is utilized. (Same with Korea) Houses are clustered tightly together and any bit of yard, or roadside or space beside the rail tracks or rivers was cultivated, or planted with fruit trees. Except for the ultra-wealthy, houses are small and compact. Most people live in high rise apartment buildings. As we rode around I had a feeling of yes, this is familiar because it is the same earth that I live on, but at the same time the changes to the landscape by humans was very different from the US.

I noticed that Japan is very clean, as in almost no trash anywhere, especially in public spaces. The weird thing was that there were no trash bins on street corners or in restaurants or stores. I'd have a piece of trash in my hand and look around for someplace to discard it and I never could find anyplace. But there was no trash on the ground. Evidently, people just tuck things into their bags, pockets, etc. and discard it at home. I did see a few bins in the Subway/train stations, but NEVER in the restrooms. Which reminds me, there were no towels in the restroom and seldom an electric hand dryer. The ladies would wash their hands, then pull out a small towel (what we would call a washcloth) from their bags, dry their hands and pop the towel back in their bags. I used my large cloth handkerchief and changed it daily. Good thing I didn't need to blow my nose too.

Japanese cuisine, at least what I was exposed to, is delicious. The tastes are refined and delicate. Everything seemed to be "natural", that is, not flavored with spices or herbs. The flavors of the foods themselves were allowed to be tasted. Their cuisine is heavy on fish, soybeans, and seaweed. I think I had those in many varieties at every meal. Emphasis is on taste and beauty, rather than quantity, although I was always fully satisfied at every meal.

The Japanese people are reserved, yet friendly and helpful. Those employed in the service industries were cheerful, helpful and polite in the extreme. It was so refreshing. Even the garbage collector we passed on our way to the train station greeted us with a polite bow. They seemed to delight in trying out their English and I was impressed by everyone who tried. They certainly did better with English than me with no Japanese.

I enjoyed being a people watcher on the trains. Stereotypically, we think of Asians looking all alike. Wrong! I knew before I went that there is almost infinite variety in their looks and features. I knew this from almost five years of watching Korean Dramas online. I believe the only thing that is identical is hair color, which they change so there are lots of dark browns and reds, with a few blonds which stand out. I am taller than most of them, although the younger generation, my children's ages, are growing taller.

I didn't get any pictures, but we got to attend a performance of Kabuki Theater. We saw a short one act comedy. Headsets were provided so we could hear a translation and explanation of the play. It was different and delightful. Written in 1773 (or thereabouts) the play was witty and clever. The stylized exaggeration of inflection was interesting to listen to, and the acting was great.

I am so glad I visited! I would like to return and explore a little more of the countryside. Of course there is plenty to see in the city too. Like New York City, three days is enough to only skim the surface of a few highlights.

Last Night and Morning in Japan

After the gardens we walked through a section of town where the fish markets are, then went for a late lunch at a sushi place and I had my first tastes of sushi. I wasn't terribly adventurous and didn't have any raw fish, but what I ate I enjoyed; I didn't take pictures either because I simply forget until it's too late. That evening I got to go to a session at the Tokyo temple. While I was inside the others walked around (in the rain) and went to a cafe for hot chocolate, etc. Here's Noble with what I think is the Tokyo Tower (old TV broadcasting tower, before SkyTree was built) in the background.

See, here I am at the Temple which is smack dab in the middle of urban Tokyo. It is right on the street with only a fence and sidewalk separating it from traffic. 

On Saturday morning we took pictures before leaving for the airport. I just love this wonderful family. (They also have a son, but he was shy and not around much so I didn't get a picture of him.)

Daughters and Mothers

And lastly, some interesting brickwork seen on the way to the airport. (Can you tell I like brick?)

I had a wonderful time in Japan and would love to go back. The best part is having someone to stay with and act as tour guide since I don't speak the language. It is a fascinating country with lovely people, really good food, and interesting history. Well worth the time and expense of getting there.

Second Garden of the Day

Hama-rikyu Gardens

"Gardens of the Tokugawa Shogun family representing the Edo era, famous for its "Shiori-no-Ike" pond and two duck ponds. The Shiori pond is designed featuring a landscape that changes with the ebb and low of the tides. These are the only tidewater ponds which still remain in Tokyo."

Cherry trees against the backdrop of skyscrapers:

Part of the rock wall lining the canal to Tokyo Bay through which the tidewaters flow.

"This pine was planted 300 years ago to commemorate the great renovations made to the garden by the 6th shogun Ienobu. The thick branches spread out low, presenting a proud, imposing view."

Showing some of the branch supports. I was fascinated at how many ancient trees I saw around Tokyo, held up by supports and nurtured rather than destroyed.

A variety of bamboo growing on a slope. I saw some beautiful bamboo groves, but never when I had my camera ready. (Darn)

A view of one of the ponds.

PFCMom and my sweet hostess.

"This is a rest house where the shogun, ladies and Imperial Court nobles enjoyed a view that they were all very fond of. The present building is a restored one built in 1983. Here you can enjoy powdered green tea and Japanese sweets."

Matsu-no-ochaya (Pine Teahouse)

"One of the teahouses built in the time of the 11th shogun Ienari. While it was destroyed by fire during the war, it was restored in 2010 based on research of the remains including cornerstones. By construction faithful to the historical sources, a landscape redolent of bygone days has been recreated."

In the midst of a gigantic, bustling city, I enjoyed this oasis of peace and beauty. I could well imagine what it was like hundreds of years ago. The two gardens we visited gave me some ideas of what I could do with my own little plot of ground in Iowa.

Japanese Public Gardens

We return to the regularly scheduled travelogue with our visit to two public gardens in Tokyo.

Kyu-Shiba-rikyu Garden is one of the oldest Daimyo gardens dating back to the beginning of the Edo era. (1603-1868) A green oasis surrounded by tall building, this beautiful garden features the typical elements of a Japanese landscape garden, including a pond and man-made hills, symbolizing the ocean, lakes and mountains of the real world, and circular walking trails to enjoy the garden from various perspectives.

During the Edo Period, the garden was built on land reclaimed from Tokyo Bay, and served as the residence of various feudal lords and government officials. In 1875, after the fall of the feudal government, it was turned into the Shiba Detached Imperial Villa, however, all the buildings were destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.

We happened upon a couple having wedding photos taken and asked if we could take their picture in their traditional clothing. They consented and then asked that we join them in a picture for their album.

Noble and I like the juxtaposition of ancient and modern.

Our hosts told us that there are over 100 varieties of cherry trees in Japan. Many were still in bloom.

Including this one with green blossoms. Incredible!

We met lots of friendly fish in the pond too.

An interesting bamboo fence.

Really Good Food

Breakfast on Friday, prepared by our hostess:

A bowl of rice, a bowl of soup; upper left is eggplant, very delicious; upper right, salmon, below it is fish eggs, the yellow is a rolled omelet; the two red spears are crab; greens, shredded cabbage, melon and grapefruit. All of it fresh and delicious. I wish I knew a better word to describe it; it was all really, really good. Some of the tastes and textures were new to me, and fish eggs were an absolute first! But I didn't feel like spitting anything out. I ate it all and enjoyed it.

Breakfast on Saturday.

Yogurt, the small square dish held a seaweed mixture (like gelatin); rice porridge; on the long rectangle dish: citrus (some kind of Japanese cross), shredded cabbage, broccoli, avocado, one wedge of tomato, two difference kinds of fish eggs; tempura-green bell pepper, pumpkin and a couple of things I can't remember; two ham rolls. Again, totally delicious!

I didn't think to take a picture of breakfast the first day, but want to say that the soybean soup was the best way to start a cold morning. It was creamy like half and half, and tasted like sweet corn. I enjoyed the whole heavenly bowlful. That was just the beginning; then we were served a plate of an omelet, two 'lil smokie type sausages, and the shredded cabbage, veggies and fruits. There was also a tiny cup of soybeans that we were instructed to stir rapidly with our chopsticks; the stirring produced a stickiness to the beans (not sure how they were prepared) then we slurped them up, sort of like slurping jello. At this point I wasn't very adept with the chopsticks so we all had a good laugh as I tried to maneuver food from the plates and bowls to my mouth.  

The three delicious breakfasts, all plated so beautifully, and presented so elegantly (I experienced dish envy big time!) inspired me to put more effort into making the breakfasts I serve every morning more visually appealing. It takes just a few minutes more and a bit more thought but makes the meal so pleasant and interesting. 

A few funny people

After we rode the water taxi downstream we got out at a place where Sumo Wrestling is held.

Continuing in Japan

Tokyo is the largest city I've ever been in (until I went to Seoul, which has a million more people!) so I looked out from the observation deck in total amazement and bewilderment. The past five years of living in a town of 2,100 people has shrunk my perspective. Tokyo is just mind-bogglingly huge, largely flat and goes on for miles!

While we visited, the weather was chilly, including a day of rain. I was glad I had my Pashmina and a flannel lined coat with a hood. Noble braved the cold the first day then borrowed warmer wraps the next days.

This gate marks a traditional shopping area in the downtown area (although how can you tell what is downtown when it is all urban?). We enjoyed looking at all the trinkets and souvenirs for sale. I bought some postcards to send to loved ones, and some magnets to add to the collection on my fridge.

At the other end of the market street is a huge Buddhist Temple. The woman in the bright green coat is our hostess, and the girl in jeans next to her is our former exchange student.

Before entering the Temple we purified ourselves, first with smoke, then with water.

If I remember correctly, this dragon is outside the temple. Unfortunately, we arrived just as the temple was closing for the day, so Noble didn't snap any pictures of the interior. We tossed our coins in the collection and took a quick look around the room before exiting.

The Johnny-Jump-Ups were so pretty! Here we're waiting for a water taxi for a ride up the river.

Moored to the opposite bank of the river was this old style boat. It was sure relaxing to sit in the warm cabin of the water taxi after so much walking in the cold.

I fell in love . . .

. . .with Japan and Korea. It was such a fantastic trip I want to share some photos and impressions.

First up, this unflattering frame of me in the home of our hostess in Japan. We stayed in their traditional Japanese style family room, sleeping on mats on the floor. I was surprised at how comfortable they were.

I'm living in the dark ages . . . their car had a screen which doubled as a television. Incredible! And a little distracting.

On our first full day there we went to see the Skytree Tower in Tokyo. Here I am with my friend, mother of the exchange student we hosted in 2003. We ate lunch at a restaurant on the 32nd floor in the building at the left of the photo.

Pasta with tomatoes and cheese for PFCMom

Pasta with olive oil and veggies for Noble

Skytree Tower is about 640 meters tall; built to be taller than anything around it so it can broadcast the television signal clearly and without interference. There is a shopping mall near the base of it.

Here are Noble and I with the tower in looming over us.

 

And the view from the observation deck on the 450th "floor" was spectacular. 

Here are some of the interior support beams:

And here we are standing on a glass viewing floor looking down at the ground below.

Finally, not for the faint of heart, my first experience with a "squatty potty". I encountered these in the airport, subway and bus stations. Good thing I'm not squeamish or a germophobe, as they are a bit smelly, but otherwise not a bad experience. When you've gotta go, it doesn't matter so much.

More tomorrow, stay tuned.